Madras Lane Hawkers, Kuala Lumpur

The yong tau foo stall at the entrance of Madras Lane is outstanding. I picked stuffed bitter gourd, tofu puffs and eggplant, all served in a light curry broth for RM8. The lady who runs it has been there for decades. Add a bowl of cendol from the stall opposite and you have the perfect Chinatown breakfast.

Came for the curry laksa and it did not disappoint — coconut-based broth with a good level of spice, thick noodles and cockles. RM7 for a bowl. The alley is narrow and crowded but that is the authentic experience. Most stalls close by 2 pm so arrive in the morning.

The chee cheong fun stall here serves some of the best in KL. The rice noodle sheets were silky and the sweet dark sauce with sesame seeds was spot on. I also tried the Indian rojak — deep-fried fritters in a thick sweet sauce. Both dishes for under RM10 total.

My local friends brought me here and I understand the hype. The asam laksa was tangy and refreshing, the popiah was stuffed with jicama and tightly rolled, and the red bean soup was smooth. Everything felt homemade. Cash only — bring small notes.

Decent variety of food in a very tight back-alley setting. The yong tau foo and chee cheong fun were the highlights. Do not expect any comfort — you sit on plastic stools squeezed between two rows of stalls. That said, the food quality per ringgit here is hard to beat in Chinatown.