Gēn, Penang

Chef Johnson Wong's 11-course degustation is the finest meal I have had in Malaysia. Every ingredient is local and every course tells a story about Penang's produce. The silky chicken soup served in a glass bottle was playful and delicious. The menu changes every three to four months, so repeat visits always yield something new. RM498 per person for dinner, plus wine pairing. Book at least two weeks ahead.

The Michelin star is well earned. The intimate heritage-building setting on Gat Lebuh Gereja seats only a handful of diners, which makes the experience feel personal. Nearly every ingredient appeared in at least two preparations across the courses. The fish course was outstanding, and the organic wine pairings complemented each dish perfectly. One of the best fine-dining experiences in Southeast Asia.

Had the lunch tasting menu at RM398 per person. The plating was artistic and sometimes playful, with each course drawing on childhood nostalgia and local Malaysian ingredients. Fish featured prominently and every preparation was precise. The wine list includes over 30 organic and biodynamic options. Only criticism: the small space can feel warm on a hot afternoon. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

Johnson Wong won the Michelin Young Chef Award and you can see why. His exploration of Malaysian roots through fine dining is unique. The seasonal menu meant our dinner was completely different from a friend's visit two months prior. The lacto-fermented bread course and the prawn dish were standouts. Reservations are essential, especially for Friday and Saturday dinner seatings.

A thoughtful, ingredient-driven meal that celebrates Penang and Malaysia. The tasting menu ran eleven courses over about two and a half hours. Pacing was good and the team explained each course clearly. At RM498 for dinner (before tax and service), it is expensive by Penang standards but comparable to similar restaurants elsewhere in Asia. Worth it for a special occasion.